Wednesday 8 April 2009

Perth

We had the best time in Perth! If I had to plan the trip over, I’d spend our two free days here instead of at the beach. But who knew and it might not have worked with the days the churches wanted for their talks.

We flew into Perth from Sydney arriving at almost 2pm local time. It was cloudy most of the way but we managed to see that the area approaching Perth is arid, perhaps sheep farming with forests along an escarpment. We learned that Australia used to end at that escarpment. Perth and the environs leading to the ridge were all underwater. As Australia moved, the sandy area rose above the water. So the ground is all pure sand. The Swan River forms a bay around which Perth is built. After landing we drove directly to King’s Park (named for Edward VII who visited at the turn of the century). It is over 1000 acres of forest and parkland overlooking the bay and city. Gorgeous views. Perth has an number of parks and generous green space along the water front and dotted about the city.

We had lunch at a lovely tearoom in King’s Park. I highly recommend it. Dave had bratwurst. I had a roast pumpkin salad with feta cheese and rocket. It’s not as strange as it sounds. Then walked about looking at the Anzac Memorial. We had just read about the Herculean effort of what amounted to the Australian Natl Guard Reserves fending off the Japanese in Papau New Guinea by walking across the Kokoda trail, a tortuous 8 day trail even today. Numerically overwhelmed, they managed to engage the Japanese and then finally hold them off until reenforcements could arrive. Stories of incredible sacrifice, bravery and hardship are told. There is a relief map in the park with lots of history written on it, showing the trail and areas of importance. It’s very moving and part of WWII history that we don’t know. Several thousand diggers, Aussie soldiers, died in this encounter which must have been a staggering percentage of the Aussies involved. They have trees planted along the road of the park with plaques, each tree dedicated to a different soldier.

Then we walked to this incredible glass and metal bridge soaring over a dip in the forest. This is not to be missed. We saw Black cockatoos, ringed parrots called 28s (don’t ask me why, no one seems to know), and several Laughing Kookaburras. We walked through gardens to a lovely pond and water feature dedicated to women. The bushes and trees were teeming with birds. We identified as many as we could and wrote detailed descriptions for when we return and have the bird book in front of us. Why did I leave it at home again? I didn’t want to leave. I could easily have stayed there another hour or two. Birds of every description were snacking on the grass, dipping into the water, flying through the trees. Birding heaven right in the city.

Our guide in this glorious afternoon was Ariane who we’re hoping comes to visit us in Tucson. She has a fledgling jewelry company. They went to Thailand this year for stones and to make contacts. They are hoping to come to Tucson for the world famous gem and mineral show, one of these years. She was a delight and we really enjoyed her company.

We were back at the hotel and cleaned up in time for a 7pm workshop. The church is in an historic location across from their Parliament building. This was the largest number present at a prep workshop so far. Lovely group and the meeting was delightful. They asked lots of questions and were quite engaged.

Next morning a charming couple, Sam and Elizabeth generously offered to take us to Yanchep National Park. I’d mentioned to Ariane that we’d like to see kangaroos. Apparently they are easy to see in certain areas in the early morning and early evening. However, neither of those times were available to us given the schedule. I checked on the internet and came up with Yanchep Park and Sam agreed this was a good place, only 45 minutes from Perth. Off we went arriving around 10am. Instantly saw flocks of black cockatoos which apparently are becoming quite rare. Saw lots of water birds up close and personal, notably the Australian Shelduck a handsome large duck with black head, stunning white ring around the eye, rich chestnut chest and a white ring around the neck. Green and lovely brown coloring on the back make this duck a stunner to watch on shore and in flight. We got within feet and were able to quietly take in every detail of this gorgeous duck. Also saw Australian Spoonbill in a tree and then only a few feet from us putting its unusually shaped bill to work scooping up tidbits from the shallows. So many highlights among the birds it’s difficult to describe, only that Dave and I were in heaven. No people, beautiful park, easy walking. It was sort of point your binoculars in a direction and see what wonder appeared.

As we worked our way along the lake front Dave sat at a picnic table and what did he espy? A roo!!! There in the shade by the edge of the forest was a mamma roo with her “joey” (they all call them that) and daddy roo quietly watching while laying down in the forest. We watched for quite some while. The joey stood up and stretched a bit, so cute. Mom licked her tiny front paws. We quietly made our way down the path. She watched us but then ignored us. We got a super look at the powerful back end and back paws. Those feet are huge! Think size 40! It was a super satisfying experience. Interestingly there were lots of other people wandering around the park and not one person came this direction toward the roo family. We were the only ones to see them.

Then we returned to the Koala enclosure. This is a breeding park for koala. There are 3 distinct species in Australia, which can’t successfully interbreed. The species in Perth is from Melbourne area. We saw almost 10 different koala, males and females. And great views. Dave and I hung around quietly (bird watching really does help) and saw koalas wake up, look around, climb up and around a tree, readjust, etc. We got great looks at their faces, chests, paws and claws. It was fantastic considering it was noon, beastly hot, and these guys were in full snooze.

Had a lovely lunch at the restaurant there. Btw, they have a Comfort Inn on the premises! Don’t think it’s more than a 2 star, but if we’d had a car and no talks I’d have stayed there in a heartbeat to wake up early and catch the wildlife at its best early in the morning and then again in the late afternoon. As it was we left around 2pm and a Grey Butcherbird was silently working out of a hiding place trying to snag a meal. I just pointed my bins in a direction and viola there he was. Fabulous place to bird. We got back at the hotel by 3, time for a quick coffee and desert (because there was no time for dinner), a quick nap as Dave and I were dead on our feet, and off in time for a lovely lecture at 7pm. This was a great group, people talking to me afterward like I have in Latin America which means asking for prayer, and very personal conversations. I’ve missed that in Australia, which seems to have kept me at arms length. Friendly and polite but not allowing me into their personal prayerlife so to speak. So this was meaningful and I was grateful.

We got up at 4am to make our 6am flight, where I’m writing this note flying over the farming areas of Victoria after crossing the Great Australian Bight (why is it called that?)

We picked up a brochure at the hotel for Greyline bus tours and instantly saw a tour that I would love to take. It goes to an area called the Pinnacles with weird rock obelisks jutting out of the golden sand. Looks fantastic and otherworldly. The same tour took in a couple other parks, wildlife sighting etc. Then they talked about parks for birds further south and a tempting island called Penguin, which sounds like a nifty birding destination. We literally had 36 hours in Perth but fell in love with it and saw an enormous amount considering.

If you plan on visiting, this is one place I’d allow 3-4 days to drive up and down the coast, visit the numerous national parks and drink in the glorious sunshine and atmosphere.

I’m grateful to God for letting us come here.

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